N62 Z3 Part 10: Finishing Wiring

Welcome to part 10... it's been a long time coming!

So the first thing to do was to get the the fuel pump in the car working. This is how it ran it to get it to start the first time, with the fuel pump powered directly. They aren't touching like it kind of looks like they are

This was really a super simple process after figuring out the wiring diagrams. That process took just a bit longer than it should have because the diagram for the N62 X5 fuel pump were labelled incorrectly. The diagram indicated that the fuel pump relay output is on the engine harness itself. As it ends up, it was not. When I found what the correct harness and pin was I realized this was actually related to that mystery IVM "power supply" wire I had troubles with earlier, when the IVM was wired wrong

On the N62 cars this power supply feeds a few things - e-box fan (which is how I eventually wired mine) and fuel pump relay among them. The Z3 powers this from the engine harness directly and there is a plug in the DME box which feeds to a fuse and then to the relay. So it was simply a matter of connecting one side of my meter to the fuse and probing the other side until I hit gold

And gold I did hit. Some of you may recognize this harness from earlier, especially you binge readers who read this all in one session. This red/white wire is the one that feeds to the fuel pump relay. I had previously ran a male plug into this harness to tap that green/white wire. So all I needed to do was crimp the corresponding terminals onto a length of wire and click it into the corresponding spot in the harness. Easy. No hodgepodgery, no cutting, no splicing. Just good ol' crimps, the way BMW intended

The e-box fan is currently unpowered (I de-pinned it's wire from the IVM to make room for the above wire). The e-box fan is DME controlled by ground though, so I should be able to give it any 12v power supply and it will work fine. I could also tap into line if I wanted to, just crimp a new wire with an extension going to the e-box fan positive. Not a big deal at all

With it all wired in, it's time for another start. I did not align the DME-EWS this time

It is running completely self-contained! This is really great because it means the fuel pump relay is now working AND the DME-EWS have been aligned successfully and it ran long enough for the "rolling codes" to align. Or whatever the term is. Basically the DME and EWS are best friends now. And the Valvetronic DME is just like their little weird... slave thing... yuck. I'm going to try to stop anthropomorphizing (I spelled that correctly the first time round, today is turning up all Aces for ol' Graham!) engine management computers now.

And, only 10 errors in the DME, all of which are accounted for

Also, I am not sure I have noted this before, but I think it's weird the N62 uses mechanical tensioners

Also, just *cough* a slightly related observation

E39 frame rail width, about 30"

E60 frame rail width, about 30"

E60 subframes bolt to E39's. I just can't shake the idea of an E39 wagon with a 4.8is drivetrain in it, including the 6 speed auto. Just seems so cool. Gonna finish this build first but I'm actively on the lookout now for E39 wagons to buy for that swap

Alright, back to this build...

So, what's next? Good question actually. I'm kind of still deciding. I was so focused on getting here that I wasn't even thinking of where to go next Obviously it needs fabrication work. Like, duh. But I'm trying to think of what else I should do before the engine comes back out again, if anything. I'll ponder it over the weekend and plan on taking the engine out early next week to start prepping everything for the fab work. I'm going to try to get everything done *except* the engine mounts, I want everything in place before those get made Have a feeling my VISA card will be burning pretty soon too - it's just about time to purchase the N62 refresh parts. I think I'll stick with the 4.4 in the Z3, but I will spend some time deciding that over the weekend as well

One important question has come up. Should I learn to weld and do 100% of this project myself?

Or plan B: basically buy my fabricator a Ferrari because jeeez this is gonna add up quickly

...I think I'm going to learn fabrication and welding myself as those are skills I am going to need going forward. In the meantime I threw the radiator core support in place to get an idea of how much room I have to work with

It's hard to get an idea of the perspective here but there is about 7-8" of clearance between the front accessories and the edge of the radiator support, which has everything but the radiator installed. It seems like there will be plenty of room to fit a large radiator and the intake system

So next up is a lot of stuff so I'm going to be writing down what I need to do here to organize it for myself. I also have a lot of customer work in at the shop at the moment so things are going rather slowly on my personal stuff - I am thinking of closing the shop to customer work again, because I really want to focus on this swap and future swaps. In fact, speaking of future swaps, I bought another engine...

It even came with a VAC dry sump, complete with reservoir!

For those who don't know, this is the BMW S62 V8 engine. It's a little hard to tell because it's currently disassembled but in my opinion it is the best BMW V8 ever made...

Anyways, I plan on putting this S62 on an engine stand and rebuilding it slowly to use for a future swap - most likely into a different Z3, maybe a coupe. Some of the S62 engine gaskets I need are backordered until April (its February 11 as of writing this) so I think it will be a slow process. It has a crank and pistons installed and the block is said to be good, I will double check that though. It came with ARP rod bearing bolts and a new set of rod bearings which is great

While I wait on parts for that, I have plenty to do with the N62 swap

The first thing I will need to do is set the engine height to establish the correct driveline angle

Once that is done, I will need to determine if the shift linkage will fit or if the transmission needs to be dropped down to allow for clearance. If it does need to be dropped down then I will have to re-adjust the engine height to set the driveline angle. I am hoping I can make it work with the transmission bolted in as it is now, as I don't want too much stress in the center support bearing

With the engine set at it's final height, I need to get the engine mounts made. To do that (I will get them outsourced for now) I first need to modify the subframe - it looks like the oil pan will just barely rub the rear 1" or so of the stock subframe. The oil pan is angled steeply here so I will try to match the subframe to this contour to maintain as much of the original subframe structure as possible

Then the subframe can be bolted into place and engine mounts can be fabricated

From there, I can work on the rest of the stuff in no particular order

Fabrication - Modify front subframe (after doing all of the above)

- Engine mounts

- Fill/plug the SAP ports in engine heads

- Clearance both frame rails for clearance (alternator/tensioner bolt)

- Driveshaft - thinking of a few options here but not sure on anything yet ...E60 front paired to E46 custom shortened rear? E60 front customized to have a Z3 style center spline joint? I think there are many ways to solve the driveshaft problem

- Shift linkage - stock E60 carrier and selector rod with the length modified should work fine

- Headers and steering shaft - this is the big one, my main concern is the driver's side header and in particular the clearance around the steering shaft. I have seen some people drop the steering shaft down the firewall ~5" or so, which seems a better solution to me than adding an extra U-joint in the system. I will need to investigate this further to see how things look once the engine is in place

- Obviously after headers comes exhaust, I am thinking I will run an aftermarket Z3M rear section and then I will just need a custom fabricated mid-pipe from headers to the rear section Cooling System

- Verify cooling system routing - first I need to just sit down and figure out what goes where on the N62. Most critically is knowing how many engine inlets/outlets there are and where they go

- Radiator - thinking I will start with a stock S54 radiator and run the N62 oil cooler lines to an S54 style oil cooler, like the stock S54 configuration

- Lower radiator hose - needs to be modified for the N62 coolant temp sensor

- Heater core hoses

- Expansion tank routing


- Fuel pump

- Manual pedal installation with lines and etc, as car is originally an automatic

- Clean up wiring a little bit - re-route electric pedal and ignition wire through firewall

- Remove stock accelerator pedal and install electronic pedal

- Diff swap - maybe a complete rear-end swap? I have a spare 3.0 rear-end which is quite a bit beefier than the stock 2.3 stuff, so I may try to find some time to install that, although I could just swap the diff for a less crazy ratio (stock is 4.10) and swap to 3.0 stuff later, depending on how long the rest of the stuff takes

- Paint engine bay with engine out


- Positive engine harness cable - run a positive cable to the starter and the alternator from the battery (currently the starter has jumper cables powering it directly)

- Intake

- Refresh - valve stem seals, coolant transfer pipe, alternator bracket oil gasket, engine gaskets, clutch kit

It's a lot - but when I write it all down, it actually feels like less than it did when it was just floating around in my head... just need to start at step one and start looking at the driveline angle and then checking shift linkage clearance

I am sure though that there are as many things I am forgetting that are not on the list, as there are things on the list. I think these are the big things though

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